Túcume:

Few places inspire belonging in me. This is one of them. It’s as if you walked for hours before finding a place that brings you tranquility and good vibes; you want to remain there, as in an oasis that offers solace.

I traveled to the North of Peru for the first time in the 70s. I was very young back then. When you’re young you always feel like you’re off to discover the Egypt of the old travelers and chroniclers, the Egypt of Lord Carnarvon and the discovery of King Tut, so the experiences you live and the things you see mark you in a more permanent way. I’ve had the opportunity to come back to this region several times in my life without really being able to explain why.

Casually, in Túcume one day, I ask myself this very thing; I say: What attracts me so much to this place? Perhaps it’s that feeling of belonging. Or maybe it’s due to those indelible experiences I carry with me from my youth. Or it could be because, in a certain way, the North of Peru is a place very much like the Egypt of the 19th Century and early 20th: with its pre-Hispanic temples, its mummies, and its sandy dunes riddled with objects of the past.

Then, the moment of introspection ends and I return to reality: we’re in Peru, not Egypt… here there’s still so much to be done! And that young adventure-seeker of the 70s out to discover the world comes back to me, that feeling of potential and possibility, but matured, changed into that of a man with experience who can now transform wish into concrete actions and obtain results.

Thus we arrive at that which we’ve lovingly baptized “The Mother Earth Tour”.

“The Mother Earth Tour”:

To wonder the world today isn’t—as it was in the early 20th Century and before—only the desire of a young adventurer who roams until he has to return home because his last penny saved has run out and because he has duties—both self-imposed and imposed by society—he must fulfill. Today, we travel for work, economy and climate, too. The practice of moving almost effortlessly from one place to another has allowed us to turn traveling into something common and unimportant. Nonetheless, this doesn’t preclude the possibility of making something useful out of the values and cultural baggage we take with us.

In my capacity as a promoter of my country’s cultural values and, in particular, a promoter of the Peruvian Hairless Dog, I learned of the existence of the Peruvian Hairless Dog Cemetery of the Túcume on-site museum. I therefore decided to take advantage of this place to bring the ashes of two of my beloved dogs who died in 2012, Pau and Kiki, so that they may permanently rest there. In doing this, I joined the cause of the architect of this brilliant initiative that seeks to revalue this dog in Peruvian society.

I’m talking about the archaeologist Bernarda Delgado Elías, director of the aforementioned museum,  and a woman of great sensibility toward the national heritage, animals and, in particular, the Peruvian Hairless Dog.

I had the opportunity of visiting the place a couple of times and I immediately felt—as I’ve always felt about Túcume in general—that this cemetery is a place of tranquility and good vibes, of well-deserved rest for our adored Peruvian Hairless Dog. I said to myself that this was the ideal dwelling for my Pau and Kiki and, indeed, for all Peruvian Hairless Dogs that have touched the lives of their humans.

Encounter with Bernarda Delgado Elías (Director of the Túcume On-site Museum) at the Peruvian Hairless Dog Cemetery:

 “It all started in 1997,” says Bernarda, “with Chisca Primera, Chilalo and Pucky. They were brought to me as puppies in a potato sack but I could only buy two of them. So I called my sister, who bought Pucky. That way I wouldn’t be sad to think of what would become of Pucky.”.

Holding back the tears, she explains it to me with that great emotion that reveals a true and deep sensibility for the subject. Speaking with her is like a return to the past: her love and veneration for Peruvian Dogs makes me relive the customs of our ancestors as something that is still transmitted through time from generation to generation.

I say to myself that it’s a very natural feeling in Bernarda’s case, for she is from Lambayeque, born and raised in the city of Monsefú, festive town of farmers and artisans known as the “city of flowers”. In her childhood she and her family were surrounded by beloved pets: she tells us about her parents’ first Hairless Dog, called Nat King Cole (after the famous jazz singer), and Waro, another Hairless pup, that she had when she was very young. Currently, one of her great companions is Celeste, a little Hairless Dog with blue eyes (an eye color quite unique for this dog breed). Beside Celeste, she also has Manchas and Ñamla (after the “bird of the sea” god of the legend of Lambayeque)—both, Hairless Dogs born to Celeste.

Her love for her dogs has also had her face rather sad times. But thanks to her strength of spirit she keeps on going, raising new dogs, actively contributing to the preservation of this breed in Lambayeque Bernarda says: “I adore them because they’re playful and energetic little dogs, and very affectionate.”

Her bond with her pets is admirable. Not only because she adopts them with open hands and brings them to live with her, but also because she has provided them with a special place to rest after their deaths. “Chilalo died young,” she tells me, “and we buried him here. But there was no cemetery back then. Chisca Primera was a very good little dog. She had 4 litters of puppies. She was the one who inspired me to build this cemetery for Peruvian Hairless Dogs. They’ll be our guardian angels for the rest of our lives.”

Without a doubt, Túcume has a wealth of folklore that is a source of inspiration for artists. The appreciation for the deceased is reflected in the chapels and little roadside chapels designed by their own inhabitants. Bernarda, as a good Lambayecan, has designed the chapels for her dogs. She tells us: “Every dog that’s buried in this cemetery has been much loved.

Calac was born of Chisca Primera’s last litter. He was one of the bigger dogs and he looked the least like the rest. He was noble and detached. He adopted Samín, who was more territorial.”

Richie, who accompanied Bernarda for 15 years, had a very close bond with her. Bernarda consecrated a very special epitaph for him:

“My Richie, so loved, sweet, tender and so obedient…
15 years with me, and now you will certainly accompany me from wherever you are, my dear old dog. Rest in peace, my faithful and only friend…”

It’s clear that her relationship with her little dogs has been very close

She, and the rest of the Museum staff, collect some money among themselves in order to feed and vaccinate the dogs, as well care for them, because the Museum itself has no budget for that. This way alone can they keep them healthy and happy in life. Some staff members also help in the building of the mausoleums. Bernarda says: “They’re multi-skilled people; some of the models are even products of their own inspiration. The materials we use are adobe, canes and carob branches. Now, with the climate changes, we reinforce the bases with some cement and the roofs with tiles. The pain is special, and it undergoes maintenance. Because the cemetery is located in a rural environment I wanted it to have a strong presence.”

And a strong presence is exactly what it has. The colors used for the mausoleums are typical of the region and we find them in the artifacts and objects used by the pre-Hispanic cultures that inhabited that place. They’re tones of ocher (red and yellow), turquoise, emerald, malachite, lapis lazuli, etc. In addition, each mausoleum is decorated with beautiful flowers that are white with different shades of pink, called “Chavelita” (Catharanthus roseus). Lastly, each one has a framed portrait of the little dog that is buried inside. Each little dog has his epitaph and his description, which highlight his virtues and talents. In this way, they’ll always be present in both Bernarda’s and the staff’s daily life.

When she tells me about each mausoleum I feel as if I’m listening to the tale depicted in the funeral ceremonial pottery made by our Lambayecan ancestors (in a time without written language). It’s impressive to see how the art and the worship of our dogs is reinvented and reborn in such a natural way through the times.

“We would like to give room to all people who love this dog breed, so that their little dogs may have final resting place in this cemetery,” she tells me. “Túcume has over 221 hectares and room to grow, and the costs involved in building the mausoleums are very low.”

The affection and peace that radiate from the place have turned it, nowadays, into the inescapable touristic circuit of the Museum and, moreover, a reason of admiration for its visitors, which naturally makes Bernarda, her collaborators, and the inhabitants of Túcume very proud.

Mother Earth: “From you we are born and to you we return”:

Fate brought together me and my great friends, Pau and Kiki, and in this way we ventured in this great adventure of touring Europe to raise awareness about their breed in dog shows After their death in 2012, I decided to keep their ashes with a sense of belonging, as an unbreakable bond that deserves much appreciation and care. But my dreams to continue raising awareness about their breed weren’t paralyzed: they’re still alive. Thus, my return to reality: We’re in Peru and there’s still so much to be done!

As a traveler in these modern times who seeks to discover pre-Hispanic Peru, I think nowadays one also travels in order to make something useful of our cultural values. Undoubtedly, Túcume is the ideal resting place for my adored Pau and Kiki, because together with the little dogs of this city they’ll contribute to the preservation of their breed and the perpetuation of the cultural values it symbolizes. Therefore, in many ways, I believe this specific adventure I started with my dear Pau and Kiki closes a circle today with them becoming permanent part of this great initiative to revalue the Peruvian Hairless Dog that is the Peruvian Hairless Dog Cemetery of Túcume. I feel I’ve been true to my dear friends, who would be proud to continue representing their great ancient breed in this way. And I feel that now I have one more thing that links me to this beautiful place; one more excuse to find my way back here soon.

When Bernada is proud of the admiration of the visitors to the site, I can’t help feeling proud, too: of her initiative and the initiative of her collaborators, of the role that my dear Pau and Kiki will play in it from now on, and, above all, of the great progress that we are achieving, together, those of us throughout the world who love the Peruvian Hairless Dog, this ancient Peruvian breed, cultural heritage of our nation. The road we must travel is still very long, but with wonderful people like Bernarda Delgado Elías and her team of collaborators on our side, traveling it is very gratifying.

Quilla (nombre oficial: Sechura Quilla Pazzda – ejemplar de raza Perro sin pelo del Perú – mascota de S.E. María Eugenia Echeverría Herrera (Embajadora del Peru en Rumanía)- Criadores: Jiri Linhart y fam. Galko -Klub Chovatelů Naháčů). Art design by Alessandro Pucci. © 2018 APPP – ADPP

I exit the Aviatorilor metro station and head toward the Arcul de Triumf—the Arch of Triumph in Romanian—a historic monument in the Embassy Quarter, also known fondly by the locals as “Little Paris”. A few blocks away is a street called Intrarea Peru, which means “Peru Entry”, and, in fact, I immediately feel as if I’m entering Peruvian territory, for right in front of me I see the flag and I know I’ve arrived in the right place. I’m meeting the Ambassador, Mrs. María Eugenia Echeverría, who’s acquired a specimen of Peruvian Hairless Dog in April of this year.

Upon entering the Embassy I see through the portico a beautiful Peruvian Hairless Dog that runs out wagging its tail to find out who’s arrived. She stops a few meters away from me, right beside the flagpole that raises the Peruvian flag over the entrance patio, as if taking her rightful place among the international symbols of our national identity. My welcome committee is made up of none other than Quilla, the Peruvian Hairless pup who’s arrived to live in the Embassy earlier this year. Quilla looks at me, gets closer to see me better, then gracefully runs off, and immediately stops and turns, wanting me to follow along in her game.

María Eugenia, Peruvian Ambassador to Romania and a few other surrounding countries, is not only passionate about Peruvian culture, she also has a great capacity for exalting the virtues of out cultural heritage. This she manages by means of the official mission she carries out in her post but also thanks to her talent in decorating her residence, a space that represents the Peruvian nation.

“Some of the furniture is property of the Peruvian government,” says María Eugenia, “some of it’s mine, as well as the paintings and decorations.” She moves her hands to show me the things she mentions as we sit in the porch of the residence on some furniture covered with textiles from Cuzco and with two ornamental earthen vessels characteristic of the Moche pre-Hispanic culture on the coffee table in front of us.

S.E. María Eugenia Echeverría Herrera (Embajadora del Peru en Rumanía) y Quilla (Sechura Quilla Pazzda – ejemplar de raza Perro sin pelo del Perú – Criadores: Jiri Linhart y fam. Galko -Klub Chovatelů Naháčů). Art design by Alessandro Pucci. © 2018 APPP – ADPP

A few meters away, from a beautiful garden, Quilla observes the Ambassador as she tells me: “Despite the cold we’re having these days and the fact she has no fur, Quilla is very energetic. She doesn’t feel the cold because she’s running about all day.” Indeed, Quilla enjoys having a house with a garden that allows her to give free rein to her energy and, above all, to enjoy the affection of all the people who surround her and who daily visit the Peruvian seat.

María Eugenia loves animals in general. Beside Quilla, she has two dachshunds; one with short hair and one with hard hair. The one comes from Belgium and the other from a Peruvian family who’s passionate about this breed, with whom María Eugenia has made friendship.

“The exit process from Peru to Europe is longer for Peruvian Hairless Dogs than it is for other dogs,” says María Eugenia. “I wished to bring over with me a Hairless puppy from Peru but I found out too late that there were specific procedures for them. Through the cultural activities in which the Embassy participates we met breeders of Peruvian Hairless Dog in Europe. That’s how Quilla arrived home.”

Quilla (official name: Sechura Quilla Pazzda) was born on April 23 of this year in a world-renown kennel of the Czech Republic. The pup’s character and physical beauty confirm the professionalism and the responsible and committed work I’ve been able to witness from the kennels in that country. I’m, therefore, not surprised when María Eugenia tells me its breeders frequently ask for news and photos of the pup to find out how it’s doing, besides being always available to give her recommendations for good care and tenure.

Quilla isn’t only a beloved pet; along with the people who work with María Eugenia, she’s an active promoter of Peruvian culture, a true canine ambassador! However, Quilla is probably the first Peruvian Hairless Dog to belong to a Peruvian Ambassador.

“Every Peruvian member of our Embassy loves his or her country and proudly values its culture in his or her own way,” says María Eugenia. “Quilla is part of the life of the Embassy and of its cultural promotion. From a simple companion in daily chores, to welcoming officials from other countries, Quilla has become a Peruvian representative who reveals much about our past and history.”

It’s clear María Eugenia loves to be surrounded by dogs and, now, as Ambassador, by her Peruvian Hairless pup in particular. “I believe having a [Peruvian Hairless Dog] is worth it,” she says. “Due to the peculiarities of its breed—stylized and hairless—they attract people’s attention. People ask you where they’re from. Which is always a good opportunity to speak to them about this ancient Peruvian breed that’s accompanied both Inca and pre-Inca cultures such as the Vicus, Chavín, and Moche, as attested by huacos (ancient ceremonial pottery), decorations and musical instruments. Tell them also how they were so appreciated that they had a role in religious ceremonies and how, due to the warmth of their bodies, they also had antirheumatic therapeutic uses. That way they’ll now know, when visiting Chan Chan or the Tombs of the Lord of Sipán, for instance, that those Hairless Dogs that welcome tourists are part of the cultural legacy of the pre-Hispanic civilization.”

On closing our conversation I ask her if she would recommend other people to have a Peruvian pet: “Of course, but as long as they’re willing to treat them with dedication and affection. They’re very affectionate dogs, and totally dedicated to making their owners happy, so it’s the least they deserve In addition, since they’re part of the national cultural heritage, it would be good if their owners were interested in learning about the history of these dogs.”

I say goodbye to the Ambassador and Quilla and I feel this is just the beginning of a beautiful story. Quilla is still quite young, and from her place as canine ambassador to Peru in Romania, now and in the future, wherever the diplomatic career of María Eugenia takes them, she’ll have the opportunity to touch the lives of so many people from many different places, and teach them of the existence of her ancient breed, allowing them to spend some moments with a very special dog, perhaps even inspiring them to have a Peruvian Hairless Dog in their lives, too.

Heading back to Bucharest’s Arch of Triumph I think of the great triumph of these last years that’s been popularizing the Peruvian Hairless Dog in the world, and I think how valuable it would be for spreading internationally the Peruvian cultural identity that more official Peruvian representatives in the world followed the example set by our Ambassador in Romania and hired a Peruvian canine ambassador of the caliber of Quilla.

APPP – ADPP (Association pour la protection du patrimoine péruvien – Asociación de defensa del patrimonio peruano)

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Hairless Peruvian pup takes all her love to the Peruvian Embassy!